Reference Number:
GB 3075 TLO
Audio Recording of Tom Longstaff
One compact disc
Creator Name 1:
Longstaff, Thomas George
Creator Name 2:
British Broadcasting Corporation
Biog/Admin History:
Longstaff qualified in medicine but never practiced. As a man of independent means he was able to travel and climb wherever he wished. He visited the Himalaya (six times), the Arctic (five times), the Selkirks, the Rockies, the Caucasus and the Alps (twenty times).

First ascents of Tiktingen, Latsga, Lakra, Bashiltau and the West Peak of Shkhara were achieved during a trip to the Caucasus in 1903. He reached the rim of the Sanctuary on Nanda Devi in 1905. In 1907 he climbed Trisul (23,360ft) which remained the highest peak ever attained for twenty one years. In 1908 Longstaff was awarded the Gill Memorial.

Longstaff discovered the Siachen Glacier in 1909 during a trip to the Karakorum. In 1922 he served as Technical Advisor on the second expedition to Everest.

In 1928 Longstaff was awarded the Founder's Medal of the Royal Geographical Society and served as President of the Alpine Club, 1947 to 1949. This My Voyage, his autobiography, was published in 1949.

He died aged 89 in 1964.
Archival History:
Given to the donor by the daughter of Tom Longstaff.
Acquisition Source:
Donated by Audrey Salkeld
Accession Number:
Scope and Content:
Memories of a mountaineer was recorded shortly before Longstaff's death and broadcast during an interval in a Proms performance at the Royal Albert Hall. Hamish MacInnes is the interviewer.

Longstaff talks about his trips to the Himalya in 1905, 1907, 1909; his posting to the Hindu Kush; the 1922 Everest expedition; the attempt on Nanda Devi; the ascent of Trisul in 1907 - the jubilee year of the Alpine Club; the invitation from Scott to go to the Antarctic in 1909, which was declined; changes in attitude to mountaineering.
Access Conditions:
This collection is open for consultation. Readers are advised to contact the Mountain Heritage Trust in advance of their visit in order to make an appointment.
Related Material:
Records of the Mount Everest Expeditions are held at the Royal Geographical Society. Diaries and correspondence and an oil portrait are held by the Alpine Club.
Description compiled by Maxine Willett, Archivist,
Access Points:
Everest, Mount
Himalaya Mountains
Kaufmann, Christian (1872-1939)
Longstaff, Thomas George (1875-1964)
Nanda Devi
Related Entities:
British University Film and Video Council
Magdalene College, Cambridge
National Media Museum
North Devon Record Office
Oxford University, Merton College
Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Library and Archives
Royal Society for Asian Affairs
Science Museum Library
Wellcome Library for the History and Understanding of Medicine
2007-01-25 00:00:00
M Willett