Reference Number:
GB 3075 HMK
Diary of H M Kelly
(1913-1957) 2005
1 cd
Creator Name 1:
Reid | Stephen
Creator Name 2:
Kelly| Harry Mills
Biog/Admin History:
Pioneer climber Harry Mills Kelly was born on 20th May 1884, he started climbing as a boy on Manchester buildings going on to establish a variety of new routes in both the Lake and Peak District (Stanage, Laddow, Castle Naze, Kinder). He also spent time climbing in Scotland (with J H B Bell), Wales, the Alps (Dauphine, Zermatt) and Norway and was fortunate to make one trip to Russia, although permit delays meant he returned home without climbing the Caucasus mountains. He married another accomplished climber, Emily (known as Pat), who died at Easter 1922 whilst climbing on Tryfan. He was particularly prolific during the 1920s, part of an impressive triumvirate comprising C G Crawford, C F Holland and Kelly himself with Pillar being a particular favourite resulting in nine new routes in addition to the existing three. On Kern Knotts, Kelly added nine to the four existing. Amongst others added were Tophet Bastion and Tophet Wall culminating in the classic Moss Ghyll Grooves. Middlefell Buttress and Scout Crag Routes One and Two were the last of his climbs in 1960 accompanied by John Cross, Poppet Clegg and a party of Sedbergh boys.

Kelly became a member of the Fell and Rock Climbing Club (FRCC) in 1919 and was one of the guide writers of the first Pillar Guide. He went on to serve as guide book editor from 1935 to 1964 where he changed their format, and as Vice President between 1935 and 1937. His partnership with A T Hargreaves and others resulted in the Brackenclose club hut of which he was treasurer. He became an honorary member in 1945 in thanks for his work for the FRCC.

Kelly also enjoyed the arts in particular music and literature, taking up painting in later life and also followed cricket. He died in March 1980 aged 95.
Archival History:
The diaries were digitised and indexed by S Reid
Acquisition Source:
Donated by S Reid
Accession Number:
Scope and Content:
Digital copy of climbing diary (1913-1957) including images, obituary and index
Access Conditions:
This collection is open for consultation. Readers are advised to contact the Mountain Heritage Trust in advance of their visit in order to make an appointment.
Ext and Loc of Originals:
With family friend
Description compiled by Maxine Willett, Archivist,
Access Points:
Alpine Regions
Fell and Rock Climbing Club
Kelly, Harry Mills (1884-1980)
Lake District
Peak District
Rock climbing
Related Entities:
Alpine Club
Cambridge University: King's College Archive Centre
London Metropolitan University: The Women's Library
London University: School of Oriental and African Studies
Royal College of Physicians of London
West Yorkshire Archive Service, Bradford
Wiener Library Institute of Contemporary History
Wolverhampton Archives and Local Studies

2012-07-30 00:00:00
M Willett