Entity Type:
Anthoine, Julian Vincent (c.1939 -1989), known as Mo
Anthoine, Julian Vincent (c.1939 -1989), known as Mo
Anthoine began climbing in the late 1950s in Wales, working for a time as an instructor at Ogwen Cottage and repeating many of the test-piece rock routes of the day and adding a few of his own (such as Llech Du’s classic E1, The Groove). An incident-packed road trip to the Far East, Australia and New Zealand followed between 1961-64 (during which he worked down an Australian asbestos mine – an episode which was eventually to have tragic repercussions). On his return to Europe Anthoine began Alpine climbing, indulging in hard routes and experiencing many epics, such as the time he managed to battle through 6 days of storm near the summit of Mont Blanc cajoling several others to survive with him, while seven climbers died. During the 60s & 70s he began to take his mountaineering skills increasingly to the big mountains of the Himalaya and South America, but unusually for a strong necky climber of the time, did not allow ambition to cloud the real reason he was there: fun and enjoyment. Although often successful, he was sometimes criticised by bar-room experts for being too cautious. Typically, Anthoine was unconcerned: ‘No peak is worth a mate’ he said, and would happily cease attempting a line if it was fraught with objective danger. His almost unparalleled record suggests he was correct and speaks volume for his sound mountaineering judgement. In over twenty expeditions to the Greater Ranges he never lost a single team member. Anthoine’s low-key expeditions were largely funded by his successul climbing hardware manufacturing business, Snowdon Mouldings. Anthoine’s climbing ability was considerable, but it was his larger-than-life character and sense of fun, together with his straightforward honesty which made him so popular with his peers. He had a reputation as a savage satirist and tease, but his ire was reserved for the pretentious, pompous or pathetically egotistic. This appeared to be recognised and respected, even by some of his targets, who continued to be friends. When he died from cancer, contracted as a result of his youthful spell in the Australian asbestos mine, over 500 people showed up at his funeral and wake, a testament to the impact his personality had had on the climbing community.

Biographical information is kindly supplied by Colin Wells.
2006-08-06 00:00:00
Maxine Willett
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Anthoine, Julian Vincent (c.1939 -1989), known as Mo