||Clough, Ian Stewart (1937-1970)|
||Yorkshireman Ian Clough first came to prominence while serving as a National Serviceman in the RAF thanks to a notorious sieged ascent of Ben Nevis’s legendary Point Five Gully. The methods he employed (a 40 hour, six-day siege of Point Five Gully, involving 300m of fixed rope and 60 rock and ice pegs) outraged the Scottish climbing community, who held the challenge of the unclimbed Point Five with a kind of reverence. However Clough later redeemed himself to a great degree after becoming a tutor with the new Mountaineering Association. He went on to co-found the famous Glencoe School of Mountaineering along with Hamish MacInnes and put up many new routes in more conventional (and acceptable) style. Clough first visited the Alps in 1953 and racked up an impressive CV of major alpine ‘Grande Courses’. In 1961 he was part of the British team that made the historic first ascent of the Central Pillar of Freney and followed it up the following year by making the first British ascent of the North Face of the Eiger with Chris Bonington. During the 1960s he undertook and led several expeditions, particularly to Patagonia and the Himalaya but was tragically killed in an avalanche at the end of Bonington’s 1970 Annapurna, South Face Expedition.
Standout climbs: 1st ascent, Point Five Gully, Ben Nevis, 1959; 1st British ascent, Eigerwand, 1962; 1st ascent Central Pillar of Freney 1962; 1st ascent Central Tower of Paine, Patagonia 1963.
Further reading: Annapurna South Face, Chris Bonington, 1970
||Clough, Ian Stewart (1937-1970)