||MacIntyre, Alex (1954-1982)|
||MacIntyre was one of the legendary early 1970s Leeds University group of climbers. They arguably epitomised the last hurrah of a macho era when climbers pursued ‘birds ‘n’ booze’, sported big hair and persisted in calling each other ‘youth’. ‘Dirty Alex’ as he was known, (a reference to his ‘charmingly chaotic personal lifestyle’ as one of his obituarists put it) was a leading player in the British charge back into the Alps in the mid-late 70s when the ‘front-point revolution’ was exported to the continent. An elite group of Brits pushed the standards, particularly on ice, shocking the complacent French and Italians. For a brief period MacIntyre and his raiding British compatriots reigned supreme, knocking off the Grand Jorasses’ giant ice-sheet The Shroud in a day, putting up new steep ice lines on the same mountain and bagging the first non-seiged ascent of the very difficult and dangerous Harlin Direct route on the infamous Eiger North Face. MacIntyre then concentrated his considerable skills in the Himalaya, where he was a fierce advocate for ‘Alpine-Style’ ethics. He made several outstanding Alpine-style ascents and attempts on major objectives (Dhaulagiri, Changabang, Shishapangma, Makalu), often with international groups. With his good looks, confidence, and impecunious lifestyle, he was widely liked and admired. Mountains, however, sadly proved once more they are no respecters of reputation; MacIntyre was cruelly struck down in his prime by a single stone which hit him square on the head while he was climbing on Annapurna.
Further reading: The Shishapangma Expedition, Doug Scott & Alex MacIntyre. Granada, 1984.
||Biographical information is kindly supplied by Colin Wells.|
||MacIntyre, Alex (1954-1982)
||329c : Salopettes
329d : Jacket
B375 : One Day as a Tiger : Alex MacIntyre and the birth of light and fast Alpinism