Entity Type:
Moffat, Jerry (1963-)
Moffat, Jerry  (1963-)
In many ways the climbing career of Jerry Moffat mirrors the changing trends in rock climbing during the 1980s and 90s and the increasing commercial opportunities available to modern talent. Moffat earned his original reputation as a bold traditional climber and soloist. Aged just 18, he climbed Little Plum at the Derbyshire limestone cliff of Stoney Middleton – then regarded as the hardest rock climb in the country. In the early 1980s he began to challenge Ron Fawcett’s crown as the ‘King’ of British rock climbing. Bolstered by the advantage of an independent income, he was able to devote himself fully to bettering his older rival and, armed with the brand new technology of ‘sticky’ rubber climbing boots, in 1983 he made a very difficult route up The Great Wall of Snowdon’s Clogwyn du’r Arddu. Despite the coolness he had displayed during this highly dangerous enterprise, the experience marked a sea-change in Moffat’s attitude. ‘If I carried on doing routes like that I was going to end up hurting myself’, he said. Jerry did hurt himself shortly afterwards – ironically by over-training – but not before he had seemingly been everywhere, done everything and declared himself the best climber in the world. After a two-year lay-off due to injury and surgery to his elbow he returned with a vengeance, but this time to the commercially lucrative arena of sport climbing and competitions, culminating in a famous victory of the climbing World Cup in Leeds. More recently Moffat, often in the company of other luminaries such as Ben Moon, has been a leading light of the fashionable Sheffield elite bouldering scene, making frequent appearances in enthusiast videos.
Standout climbs: Master’s Wall, E7 6b, Clogwyn du’r Arddu, Snowdonia; Ulysses’ Bow, E7 6b, Stanage Edge, Derbyshire; Revelations, (F8a+), Raven Tor, Derbyshire, Liquid Amber, (Britain’s first F8c route) Lower Pen Trwyn, North Wales. Winner of World Cup, Leeds, 1989.
Further viewing: Hard Grit, dir. Richard Heap & Mark Turnbull, Slackjaw Productions
Biographical information is kindly supplied by Colin Wells.
2006-08-06 00:00:00
Maxine Willett
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Moffat, Jerry (1963-)