||Scott, Douglas Keith (1941-)|
||After Chris Bonington, Doug Scott is probably Britain’s best known mountaineer, thanks to a 48-year climbing career that spans the globe and everything from small outcrops to 8000m peaks. Nottingham born Scott first became prominent in the British climbing world as an exponent of ‘artificial climbing’, tackling outrageously overhanging pieces of rock in Derbyshire and on outlandish cliffs in the Hebrides and Anglesey. He put his expertise to good use on the ‘Big Walls’ of the Dolomites, Yosemite and Norway and, ultimately, on the exotic arctic island of Baffin Island. However, since the late 1960s Scott has become best known as a mountaineer, making first ascents and pioneering new routes on mountains in the Alps, Himalaya, Karakorum, Hindu Kush, Africa, Alaska, Canada, Russia, Arabia, Antarctica and Iceland. Scott first came to wide public prominence with his 1975 ascent of the SW Face of Everest when he and Dougal Haston became the first Britons to stand atop the highest summit on the planet. Even more remarkably, they survived a forced bivouac at 8760m unscathed. Scott’s own predilection, however, is for unobtrusive small-scale ‘alpine-style’ expeditions, and he has spent most of the last 25 years pursuing this passion. Amongst his myriad climbing ventures, some of the more influential have included his 1977 tour de force on The Ogre (which involved the hardest technical rock climbing then achieved at high altitude and an epic descent with two broken legs), and his alpine style success on the third highest mountain in the world Kangchenjunga, in 1979. This was the first time that one of the three highest peaks was climbed by a small team without others present using oxygen and it spurred others on to emulate the feat on the remaining 8000m peaks. A distinguishing feature of Scott’s approach has been his concern for the mountain environment, and the local inhabitants. He has been heavily involved in securing hygienic water supplies for villages in the Karakorum and Himalayas and runs a trekking business that prides itself on ethical treatment of its portering staff. Scott continues to chase ambitious new ascents in the Greater Ranges (having recently spent much time attempting new climbs on Nanga Parbat) and is still passionate about climbing closer to home, despite nearly half a century of activity.
Standout climbs: The Scoop, Strone Ulladale, Hebrides, East Pillar of Mount Asgard, Baffin Island, Canada, 1st ascent Changabang, Garhwal Himalya, South Face Diagonal, Denali, Alaska, 1st ascent SW Face of Everest (1st British ascent of Everest with Dougal Haston), 1st ascent The Ogre (Baintha Brakk), Karakorum, North Ridge of Kangchenjunga, East Pillar of Shivling, South-east Face of Shishapangma.
Further reading: Himalayan Climber, Doug Scott. Baton Wicks, 1992
||Scott, Douglas Keith (1941-)
||231 : Triplex boots
273a : Fleece Jacket
273b : Jumper
273c : Undersuit
273e : Boots
273f : Overboots
294b : Oxygen cylinder
D001 : Mountain Equipment - 50 years in the mountains
||British University Film and Video Council
National Media Museum